Work out the monthly payment before you sign
Enter what you are borrowing, the interest rate and how long you need, and see the monthly instalment, the total interest, and the month the loan finally clears. Add an extra payment to see how much sooner it ends. Everything is worked out by your browser — nothing you type is uploaded or saved.
- Nothing is uploaded or saved
- Works offline
The loan
Monthly instalment
RM978.31
Amortisation schedule
| Year | Payment | Interest | Principal | Balance |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 11,739.72 | 2,992.45 | 8,747.27 | 41,252.73 |
| 2 | 11,739.72 | 2,406.62 | 9,333.10 | 31,919.63 |
| 3 | 11,739.72 | 1,781.60 | 9,958.12 | 21,961.51 |
| 4 | 11,739.72 | 1,114.68 | 10,625.04 | 11,336.47 |
| 5 | 11,739.57 | 403.10 | 11,336.47 | 0.00 |
These figures are an estimate for planning, not a quote and not financial advice. Your lender’s offer letter is the number that counts.
How it works
- 1
Enter the amount and the rate
The rate is the annual percentage the lender quotes — 4.5 means 4.5% a year, and the calculator divides it across twelve months for you. A 0% instalment plan is a valid answer, not an error: leave the rate at zero and the amount is simply split evenly.
- 2
Set the term
Type the number of years, or tap one of the presets. Longer terms lower the monthly payment and raise the total interest, and the two figures sit side by side so the trade is visible rather than implied.
- 3
Try an extra payment
Adding even a small amount each month goes straight against the principal, so the balance falls faster and the remaining interest is never charged. The result shows how many months you cut and how much interest you never pay.
- 4
Read the schedule
The table starts collapsed by year, because thirty years is 360 rows and nobody reads 360 rows. Switch to month view when you need a specific instalment — the split between interest and principal in the first year is usually the number that surprises people.
Frequently asked questions
Is anything I type here uploaded or stored?
No. There is no server to upload to — the site is static files, and the arithmetic runs in your own browser. This page also saves nothing to your device: close the tab and the figures are gone. That is deliberate for a calculator that holds what you earn and what you owe.
Which formula does this use?
The standard annuity formula for a reducing-balance loan: the payment is fixed, interest is charged each month on the balance that is left, and whatever the payment covers beyond that interest reduces the principal. It is what banks call a term loan or reducing-balance loan, and it is what almost every personal, car and home loan uses.
Why does the answer differ by a few cents from my bank statement?
Lenders differ on rounding and on how they treat the first partial month between disbursement and the first instalment. This calculator works in whole cents and puts the difference on the final payment, so the schedule closes at exactly zero. Expect a match to the cent on the monthly figure and a small difference on the last row.
Does this handle flat-rate loans?
Not on this page, and the difference matters enough that it has its own. Car loans in Malaysia are hire purchase, quoted at a flat rate: interest is charged on the original amount for the whole term rather than on the falling balance, so a flat 2.9% works out at roughly 5.4% in the terms this page uses. Use the car loan calculator for those — it takes the flat rate directly and converts it for you. If a personal loan is quoted flat rate, the same applies.
What about processing fees, insurance and stamp duty?
They are not included, because they vary by lender and by product and are often negotiable or waived. What this gives you is the cost of the borrowing itself. If you are buying a home in Malaysia, the mortgage calculator adds the statutory stamp duties on top.
Should I take the longer term for a lower monthly payment?
It depends on what the extra years cost, and this page puts that number next to the instalment so you can see it rather than guess. As a shape: stretching a loan from five years to seven usually cuts the monthly payment by around a fifth and raises the total interest by around a half. A longer term is the right answer when the shorter one would leave you with no margin — a missed instalment is far more expensive than the extra interest — and the wrong answer when it is being used to afford a larger loan than you would otherwise take.
Why is almost all of my early payment going to interest?
Because interest is charged on what you still owe, and at the start you still owe everything. On a 30-year loan at 4%, the first instalment is roughly two-thirds interest, and the crossover where more of the payment goes to principal than to interest does not arrive until around year twelve. Nothing is wrong when your statement shows this — it is the arithmetic of a reducing balance, and it is exactly why an extra payment made in year two is worth far more than the same amount paid in year twenty.
How much does an extra payment actually save?
More than people expect, because every ringgit paid against the principal cancels all the interest that ringgit would have generated for the rest of the term. Enter a figure in the extra payment field and the result shows both effects: the months removed from the end of the loan and the interest never charged. The general rule is that the earlier the extra payment, the larger the effect, so a lump sum in the first two years is worth substantially more than the same sum spread evenly across the whole term.
What is the difference between the interest rate and the effective rate I am charged?
The rate on this page is a nominal annual rate divided into twelve monthly charges, which is how term loans are quoted and how the schedule is built. Because interest is applied monthly rather than once a year, the effective annual rate is slightly higher than the number quoted — 6% nominal works out at about 6.17% effective. Lenders in some markets are required to quote an APR that also folds in fees; this page does not, because it deliberately excludes fees, so compare it against a fee-free quoted rate rather than against an APR.
What does the loan actually cost me in total?
The total interest figure, added to the amount you borrowed. That is the number worth carrying into a negotiation, because a difference of half a percentage point that looks trivial on a monthly instalment can be several thousand ringgit over the term — and it is the figure a lender is least likely to lead with. Change the rate by 0.5 and watch the total rather than the instalment to see what a rate is worth.
Can I use this for a business or SME loan?
For a straightforward term loan, yes — the arithmetic is the same regardless of who is borrowing. It does not model the things that make business facilities different: an interest-only period at the start, a drawdown in stages rather than a single disbursement, a variable rate that moves with a base rate, or a balloon payment at the end. For any of those, treat the answer as the fixed-rate, fully-amortising case and expect the real schedule to differ.
Can I use this for a credit card balance?
Only loosely. Cards charge daily and the minimum payment moves as the balance falls, so a fixed-instalment model is optimistic. Enter the balance, the annual rate and a fixed amount you commit to paying each month, and treat the answer as the best case.