Monthly expenses and savings calculator
List what goes out every month, put your income against it, and see what is actually left. Then set a savings target and find out how long it takes at the amount you can really put aside. Start from a household or a business list, edit every row, and export the whole thing as a CSV. Your figures stay in your browser on this device.
- Nothing you type is uploaded
- Your budget stays in this browser, on this device
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This budget stays in your browser’s storage on this device, so a closed tab does not lose it. Nothing is uploaded — there is no server to upload it to. Clearing your browser data removes it.
Where the money goes
Add your income to see expenses as a share of it.
Savings, without interest
Time to target
Enter a savings target above and this shows how long it takes at the amount you are setting aside each month.
These figures are arithmetic for planning, not financial advice. No interest, inflation or return is assumed anywhere on this page — the projection is what you set aside, multiplied by the months.
How it works
- 1
Pick a starting list, then make it yours
The Household list opens with the rows most homes actually pay — rent or the home loan, the car, petrol, groceries, utilities, phone and internet, school fees and transport, childcare or nafkah, insurance and the money that goes on outings. The Business list opens with salaries, rent, utilities, internet, the business loan, software, marketing, accounting and supplies. Neither list is fixed: rename any row, add rows, remove the ones that do not apply, and drag the important ones to the top. Switching between the two lists never deletes what you have typed.
- 2
Enter each bill at the frequency it actually arrives
Most rows are monthly, so type the monthly figure and move on. For the ones that come once a year — insurance, road tax, quit rent and assessment, an audit fee, a domain renewal — switch that row to Yearly and enter the annual amount. The row is divided by twelve and it is the monthly share that gets added to the total, which is the whole point: an annual bill you have not been setting money aside for is not a surprise, it is a bill you decided to forget.
- 3
Read income against expenses, not expenses alone
Put in your monthly take-home pay, or the revenue the business brings in, and the panel shows three numbers together: total expenses, what is left, and expenses as a percentage of income. The percentage is the one worth watching over time, because a raise that arrives with a bigger car loan attached leaves you in the same place while the absolute numbers all look better.
- 4
Set the saving, then the target
Enter what you move into savings each month — there is a button that fills in whatever is left, but the point of a separate field is that you can decide the saving first and make the expenses fit around it. The projection shows the balance after six months, one year and five years as simple accumulation, with no interest assumed. Add a target amount and you get the number of months and the same span written out in years and months. If the monthly saving is zero, the page says the target is never reached, in those words.
Three kinds of cost, and how to enter each one
Almost every budget that balances on paper and fails in practice fails for the same reason: the annual bills were never in it. A list of monthly costs is easy to build because those bills arrive on a rhythm you already feel. The ones that arrive once a year are invisible for eleven months and then take a month’s savings with them. Enter them here at their real frequency and they stop being a surprise.
| Kind | What it means | Typical rows | How to enter it |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fixed monthly | The same amount every month regardless of what you do. Changing it takes a decision, not an effort. | Rent or home loan, car loan, salaries, subscriptions, internet, school fees | Leave the row on Monthly and type the amount. |
| Variable monthly | Moves with how you live or trade. This is the part of the list that responds to a change this week. | Groceries, petrol and tolls, electricity, supplies, marketing, eating out | Leave the row on Monthly and type a typical month, not the best one. |
| Annual and periodic | Absent for eleven months, then it arrives in one lump. The reason a budget that balances still runs short. | Insurance, road tax, quit rent and assessment, audit fees, domain renewals | Switch the row to Yearly and type the annual amount; it is divided by twelve. |
The saving row deserves the same treatment as a bill. Money that is still in a spending account at the end of the month has, for most people in most months, already been spent — which is why the amount you save is entered here as its own figure rather than calculated from whatever survives. Decide it first, then adjust the list above until the two fit. That is the whole of “pay yourself first”: not a bigger number, just an earlier one.
Frequently asked questions
What counts as an overhead, and what is the difference between a fixed and a variable cost?
A fixed cost is the same every month whether you do anything or not: rent, the home or car loan instalment, insurance, a software subscription, a salary. A variable cost moves with how you live or trade: petrol, groceries, electricity, supplies, delivery charges, eating out. Both belong in this list, because both leave the account. The reason the split is worth knowing is that it tells you where a cut is even possible. Fixed costs can usually only be changed by a decision that takes months — moving house, refinancing, letting a subscription lapse at renewal — while variable costs respond this week. A budget that is 90% fixed is not a budget you can trim in an emergency, however small the total looks, and that is a fact about the shape of the list rather than about its size.
How do I handle bills that only arrive once a year?
Switch that row to Yearly, enter the annual amount, and the calculator divides it by twelve for the monthly total. Insurance premiums, road tax, quit rent and assessment, professional membership fees, an audit fee, school registration, a domain or hosting renewal — these are the bills that ambush a budget that otherwise balances, because they are absent for eleven months and then arrive in one lump. Dividing them across twelve does two things: it gives you a monthly figure that is honest about what you owe, and it tells you exactly how much needs to be sitting aside by the time the bill lands. The division is done and rounded to the cent on the row itself, so the number you see in the row is the number added to the total — the column always adds up to the figure printed under it.
What does "pay yourself first" mean, and why is saving a separate row?
It means treating the amount you save as a bill you owe yourself, taken out at the start of the month, rather than as whatever survives to the end of it. The order matters more than the amount. Money that is left in a spending account at the end of the month has, in practice, already been spent — that is what "left over" turns out to mean for most people, most months. That is why the saving field here is separate from what is left after expenses instead of being calculated from it. There is a button to copy the leftover figure across when you want it, but you are free to set the saving first and then adjust the expense rows until the two fit. If the saving you set is larger than what is left, the page says so rather than quietly showing a negative balance somewhere.
Why does the projection not include interest or investment returns?
Because any rate this page used would be a number we invented. Savings account rates differ by bank, by product, by balance tier and by month; fixed deposit rates depend on tenure and on when you lock in; investment returns are not a rate at all, they are a range with a real chance of being negative. Printing "your savings will grow to X" from an assumed 3% would look authoritative and would be wrong for nearly every visitor, and it would be wrong in the flattering direction. So the projection here is deliberately plain: it is the amount you save multiplied by the number of months, and nothing else. Whatever interest you do earn is a bonus on top of a figure you can verify with a pocket calculator. This is the same reason no public holidays are built into our days calculator and no legal fees are guessed at on the mortgage page — a plausible invented number is harder to catch than a missing one.
What happens if my monthly saving is zero, or the target is unreachable?
The page says the target is never reached at that rate, in plain words. It does not print "Infinity months" and it does not silently show a blank. Dividing a target by a saving of zero is exactly where a calculator either crashes or produces nonsense, and the honest answer is not a number at all — at zero a month, no amount of time gets you there. The same applies when the saving is so small relative to the target that it would take more than a hundred years: the page says the target is beyond a lifetime at that rate rather than printing a figure in the thousands of years, which reads like a bug. If you see either message, the useful move is to change the inputs — a bigger monthly saving, or a smaller target — and watch the months fall.
What percentage of my income should go on expenses?
This page will not tell you, and that is deliberate. The right share depends on things a calculator cannot see: how many people the income supports, whether the home is rented or being bought, whether there is a car loan or a bus pass, what the medical situation is, and how much debt is already being serviced. Rules of thumb exist and people quote them confidently, but they were written for particular countries, particular decades and particular household shapes, and applying one to a household it was not written for produces a number that feels authoritative and means nothing. What the percentage here is genuinely good for is comparison against itself. Work it out this month, keep the file, work it out again in six months, and the direction of travel tells you something real about your own budget — which is a measurement, not advice.
Is anything I type uploaded?
No. Every figure is worked out in your browser, and nothing you enter is sent anywhere — there is no server here to send it to. Your list does stay in your browser storage on this device, on purpose, because a household budget is built over several days rather than in one sitting and losing it when a tab closes would be the wrong behaviour. That means it is saved locally and it survives a refresh; it also means clearing your browser data, or using a different device or a private window, gives you a fresh empty list. If you are on a shared computer and would rather not leave it behind, clear the browser data for this site when you are done, or export the CSV and use the reset control.
Will the CSV open properly in Excel or Google Sheets?
Yes. It is a plain comma-separated file with one row per expense — the label, the amount as billed, whether that amount is monthly or yearly, and the monthly share — followed by a summary block carrying income, total expenses, what is left, the percentage, the monthly saving, the six-month, one-year and five-year projections, the target and the time to reach it. The numbers are written raw, as 1234.56 rather than 1,234.56, because a number carrying thousands separators lands in a spreadsheet as text that will not sum, and it fails silently: the file opens, the column looks fine, and SUM returns zero. The currency symbol goes in the column heading instead, where it tells you what the figures are without breaking them. Fields containing a comma or a quotation mark are quoted and internal quotes are doubled, so a row named "Utilities (water, electricity)" does not shift every column after it.