Crop a passport photo to 35 × 50 mm and print a sheet of them
Open a photo, line the head up inside the guides, and print a sheet at exact physical size — eight on 4R photo paper or twenty-five on A4, with thin cut marks. The 35 × 50 mm size is what Malaysian passport and IC applications ask for. Everything happens inside your own browser: the photo is never uploaded and never saved.
- Nothing is uploaded or saved
- Works offline
Drop a photo here, or choose one
One photo at a time, up to 15 MB and 50 megapixels. It is opened on your own device — nothing is uploaded and nothing is saved. For a 35 × 50 mm print at 300 dpi the part you crop needs to be at least 413 × 591 pixels.
How it works
- 1
Start from a photo that could work
Face the camera straight on, in even light, in front of a plain white wall with a bit of distance behind you so the wall is not carrying your shadow. Neutral expression, mouth closed, both eyes visible. Daylight from a window in front of you beats a ceiling light directly overhead, which drops shadows into the eye sockets and under the nose. No cropping tool can undo a shadow, a squint or a tilted head — this page can only frame what the camera already recorded.
- 2
Line the head up inside the guides
The crop box is locked to the 35 : 50 shape, so it can be moved and resized but never distorted. Inside it are three marks: a vertical centre line to put the middle of the face on, a crown line near the top for the top of the head, and a shaded band lower down for the chin. Drag a corner until the head fills the band and the face sits on the centre line. This is done by eye, on purpose — there is no face detection here, because an automatic crop that is subtly wrong looks finished and is not.
- 3
Check the resolution before you print
A 35 × 50 mm photo at 300 dpi is 413 × 591 pixels. If the area you selected has fewer pixels than that, the printed photo is an enlargement of pixels that were never recorded, and it shows on paper as soft hair and mushy eyelashes. The tool reads out the effective resolution of your selection and says plainly when it falls short. The fix is a bigger source photo or a wider crop, never a bigger print — nothing can add detail that is not in the file.
- 4
Print at 100%, then measure the sheet
Print on photo paper, set Scale to 100% rather than "Fit to page", and pick the right paper size in the dialog. Then measure between the outer cut marks with a ruler: the tool tells you what that distance must read. If your ruler disagrees, the print dialog scaled the page and every photo on the sheet is the wrong size — which is the single most common way a home-printed passport photo fails, and measuring is the only way to catch it before the counter does.
Frequently asked questions
What size is a Malaysian passport photo?
35 mm wide by 50 mm tall, on a plain white background. That is the size asked for by the Immigration Department of Malaysia for passport applications, and it is the size Malaysian photo studios print when you ask for "gambar passport". It is not the same as the 35 × 45 mm size used for many European and ICAO-style documents, and it is not the 2 × 2 inch square used for United States passports — a 35 × 45 mm photo submitted where 35 × 50 mm is asked for is 5 mm short, which is a visible difference against a ruler. This page does Malaysia only, deliberately: every other country would need its own reviewed entry rather than an approximation of a neighbour, and a passport photo that is the wrong size gets the application refused. The size shown here carries the date it was last checked, and the office you are applying to is the reference that counts — requirements do change, and the counter is the one that decides.
How big should the head be in the frame?
Big enough to be the subject of the photo and small enough to leave clear space above the hair. The guides drawn on the crop box follow the international ICAO convention — the head, measured from the bottom of the chin to the top of the head, filling roughly 70 to 80 per cent of the photo height, centred left to right, with a small margin of background above the crown. That is a widely used composition rule rather than a percentage published by the Immigration Department, and this page says so rather than presenting it as a Malaysian regulation. Use it as a guide and check the current requirement with the office you are applying to. What the guides are genuinely good for is catching the two mistakes people actually make: a head so small that the photo looks like a snapshot with a lot of wall in it, and a head so large that the top of the hair is cut off by the edge of the frame. Both are refused, and both are obvious once there is a band to compare against.
What actually gets a passport photo rejected?
Shadows, glasses, expression, framing and paper — in roughly that order of how often they are avoidable. A shadow cast on the wall behind you, or dropped across one side of the face by a light directly above, breaks the plain-background requirement even though the wall itself is white; stand a metre or so away from the wall and light yourself from the front. Glasses cause two problems at once: reflection across the lenses and frames covering the eyes, which is why many offices simply ask for photos without them. Expression has to be neutral with the mouth closed — a smile that shows teeth changes the shape of the face and is refused. Framing fails when the head is too large, too small, tilted, or not centred. And paper fails when the photo is printed on ordinary copier paper, which has the wrong surface and the wrong colour and is spotted immediately. Everything on that list is fixed before the photo is taken, except the framing, which is what this page is for.
Can I wear glasses, or a head covering?
Head coverings worn for religious reasons are normally accepted, provided the full face is visible from the bottom of the chin to the top of the forehead and nothing shadows the eyes. Glasses are the awkward one: even where they are permitted, the lenses must not reflect the light, the frames must not cross the eyes, and tinted lenses are not accepted at all — which is why the simplest answer is to take the photo without them. Neither of these is something a cropping tool can judge, and this page does not pretend to. It frames and prints what the camera recorded; whether the photo satisfies the rules is decided by the office that receives it, and if there is any doubt, ask them before you print a sheet of twenty-five.
My background is not white — what do I do?
Retake the photo against a white wall if you can, because a real white background with even light is always cleaner than one that was cut out afterwards. If retaking is not possible, use the background remover on this site to lift the subject away from whatever is behind them and save the result as a PNG with transparency, then open that PNG here — the export fills the background with white underneath the photo, so a transparent PNG lands on exactly the plain white that is being asked for. Two warnings about that route. Cut-outs go wrong at hair, where the edge is genuinely soft, and a halo or a chewed fringe is visible at 300 dpi even though it looks fine on screen. And a shadow that was on the face rather than on the wall is still there afterwards, because it is part of the subject. Check the edges of the hair closely at full size before printing.
How many photos fit on a sheet, and which paper should I use?
On 4R photo paper — 102 × 152 mm, the standard photo print size — eight photos fit, laid sideways in two columns of four, because turning them that way fits eight where upright fits six. On A4 the same photos fit twenty-five, five across and five down. The tool works this out from the paper size rather than from a stored number, and prints the count next to the sheet. Photo paper is the right choice for both: a passport photo on plain copier paper is refused, and no amount of correct sizing rescues it. The 4R sheet is the more useful of the two if you have a photo printer, since 4R is what those printers are built around and what a photo lab will hand you back. One honest limitation of the 4R layout: the photos use nearly the full width of the paper, so the printer must be able to print borderless. A printer that reserves an unprintable strip at the edge will clip the outer column.
How do I know the print is exactly 35 × 50 mm?
By measuring it, which is the only method that actually proves anything. Three things have to be true. First, the design has to be defined in real units — every dimension on this page is written in millimetres and never pixels, because a CSS pixel is 1/96 of an inch and 35 mm does not divide into a whole number of them; round it and you print a 34.9 mm photo. Second, the margins have to be part of the content rather than a browser setting: the print dialog in Chrome has its own Margins control that overrides margins set in CSS, so each sheet here carries its own padding, which no dialog setting can strip. Third, and this part is on you, the dialog's Scale must be at 100% or "Default" rather than "Fit to page", and the paper size must match the sheet you chose. Then take a ruler to the printed sheet and measure between the outermost cut marks. The tool tells you what that measurement should read. If it reads short, the dialog scaled the page and nothing else you do will fix it.
Can I just take the file to a photo shop instead of printing it?
Yes, and for many people that is the better answer. Download the single photo — it is exported at 300 dpi, which is 413 × 591 pixels for a 35 × 50 mm print — and give the shop that file with the size written down. Copy it to a USB stick or a phone rather than sending it through a messaging app: most chat apps recompress photos on the way through, which throws away exactly the detail you just checked for. Ask for a print at 35 × 50 mm on matte or glossy photo paper, and check the print against a ruler when you collect it, the same way you would check your own. A shop cutting from a 4R sheet is doing precisely what this tool does, with a better printer and a proper trimmer.
Does my photo get uploaded anywhere?
No. Nothing is uploaded and nothing is saved. The photo is read by your own browser, decoded into memory, drawn onto a canvas and forgotten the moment you close the tab — there is no account, no storage, no upload step and no server to send it to, because this whole site is static files served from a CDN. That matters more here than on any other tool on this site: a passport photo is a picture of your face, and most sites that offer this service process it on a machine you have never heard of. You can check this yourself. Open your browser's network panel, load a photo, crop it, download it, and watch that no request carries the image. One thing that is honest to say: this site does serve Google ads, which is a third-party request like on any ad-supported page, and they never see your photo — the ads are also hidden from the printed sheet.
Why is there no automatic face detection?
Because a crop that is confidently, subtly wrong is worse than one you positioned yourself. Face detection finds a box around a face; it does not know where the top of your hair is, whether a fringe counts, or how much clearance the office you are applying to wants above the crown. When it is off by a few per cent it produces a photo that looks perfectly finished and is refused at the counter, and by then the sheet is printed. Guides that you line the head up against are honest about what they are: a measurement drawn on the picture, with you deciding whether it is right. It also keeps the page small and keeps every pixel of the photo on your own device, which a detection model shipped into the browser would not — the smallest useful ones are larger than this entire site.